Inexpensive and Safe Shipping of Woodblock Prints
Shipping woodblock prints interstate or overseas need not be an expensive exercise. With an appropriate choice of strong yet lightweight materials it is possible to safely ship woodblock prints very economically. Here is a packaging method that I and other collectors use to ship prints. This method will be cheaper than buying a bulky box to ship the prints in. You'll need:
- a flat plastic bag or plastic slip to place the prints in;
- Several pieces of foam-board (see Figure 1) that is commonly used behind pictures in picture frames. An alternative is a 'corrugated plastic' sheet that looks just like corrugated cardboard, only it is plastic. Both are strong and lightweight. You can probably get the foam-board from an art supply or picture framing shop. The corrugated plastic can usually be bought from a DIY hardware store.
- A Jiffy padded envelope (see Figure 2) or a sheet of thick wrapping paper.
- Sticky tape (Cello tape).
Figure 1: Corrugated plastic sheet is usually available at hardware or DIY stores. Foam-board, as used in picture frames, is also a good replacement. You'll need two sheets that are cut about 10cm (4 inches) larger than the woodblock print dimensions.
Here's how to package the print/s:
Figure 2: A jiffy padded envelope (left); Close-up view of the inside of a Jiffy padded envelope (right), showing a layer of bubble-wrap on each envelope face.
That's it! Simple, light and strong. The combined weight including several oban-sized prints (25 x 40cm, 15 x 10 inches) is usually less than a pound (400 grams). Out of all the shipments of prints I've received (over 400 packages to date without any damage), this method is the best, and because it is such a light package, you can usually send several oban-sized prints for only about US$12 via USPS First Class International Mail from the USA to most countries in the world.
- Place the prints in the plastic bag and fold the edges of the bag under the prints if the bag is too large;
- Cut the several sheets of foam-board so that they are about 10 centimetres greater than the print size. I.e., if the prints are 25 x 35cm, cut the foam-board approximately 35 x 45 cm. Some brands of foam-board are quite thick and thus two sheets may be sufficient, but for standard foam-board I'd recommend at least three sheets.
- Centre the plastic bag containing the print(s) on one of the foam-board sheets, so that there are 5 centimetre (2 inch) margins on each side. Then tape each corner of the plastic bag to the foam-board.
- Place the other sheets of foam-board on top of the prints so that the prints are now sandwiched between the layers of foam-board sheet. Then securely tape the foam-board sheets together.
- Place the sandwich in the Jiffy padded bag, or wrap the sandwich in the thick wrapping paper.
Note 1: if you're worried about puncture-type damage (for example, the package being skewered by a sharp object) you can easily substitute two sheets of thin plywood for two foam-board sheets. This will increase the total package weight slightly but will also add a further level of protection.
Note 2: If you want to use corrugated cardboard, use more than three sheets. Corrugated cardboard easily bends along the corrugations so it is much weaker than foamboard. To help increase the strength of the package, cut the cardboard sheets so that the corrugations of alternate sheets run at 90 degrees to each other. I.e., the first sheet has horizontal corrugations, the next sheet has vertical corrugations, etc. Strong "two-ply" cardboard is ideal and recommended.
Figure 3: Here we show steps 1 to 3. The print has been placed in a plastic bag, centered onto one of the pre-cut corrugated plastic sheets, and then taped down at all four corners. Note: the plastic sheet margins should be larger than shown in my example: at least 1 inch (2.5cm) on each side. I recommend 2 inch margins.
Figure 4: Step 4: placing the 2nd pre-cut corrugated plastic sheet over the first, wafering the print in-between.